...cause I went to a geyser. And they blow. Get it? But also there were some hurdles to my day and I am mighty tired.

First, I need to start this post by telling all the mothering types out there that I AM FINE.

Secondly, this:


Frank had to have a little work done today and it was more than a little frustrating. [Edit: I apologise for the ensuing rant, feel free to skip.]

About 7 hours after picking up the van, Frank started making a bit of a scratching noise. By the afternoon this had developed into a full-on scraping sound so I called the rental company to let them know that I thought there might be something affecting the front brake. No answer. Also, the travel sim I picked is fine for data but not letting me make or receive calls, so I'm begging phones from all manner of strangers, tour guides, and business owners. 

After two non-pick ups I sent an email. Nothing. Then I contacted them through the website. Nothing. Not exactly a ringing endorsement here is it?

Meanwhile, the scraping is getting louder. Finally, yesterday, I get onto the company and explain the situation and they say they'll try to get me an appointment with a mechanic and will email me when they do. No follow up.

Today I try and try to get back to them but decide enough is enough and go out to find my own mechanic. But of course, being New Years. NOTHING IS OPEN. And I can't call and check because of the aforementioned phone problems. I go to six different mechanics in Rotorua (they were all rather close together, it must be a mechanic mecca) to no avail.

Finally, I see a guy pulling up the garage door on his shop and I pop over. Turns out it's the owner, Hayden, and he's not actually at work today and is super busy, but he agrees to take a quick look in the hopes it's just a rock or something he can sweep out. No. The brake pads are completely gone and the rotors are shot. He is completely appalled, saying there's no way the van should have been rented out at all.

He agrees to find the time to do it but first, he advises me to get confirmation from the company as they can be extremely picky about who works on their vans. Fine. But of course... no response.

I decide to hop on the bus, go see the attraction I was there for and try them again when I'm done (details on this more pleasant aspect of my day below). When I'm done, the information booth attendant kindly lets me into his office booth to use the phone. A long convoluted conversation later (in which I inform them I will not be paying for this), I have the approval to go ahead and do the repairs.

But when I get back the mechanic is gone. Because it's his holiday and he has a life. I then spend the next hour and half on the phone (of the glass company next door) bouncing back and forth between the rental place and roadside assistance explaining why all their 'solutions' are unacceptable.

And then. My knight in grease-covered armour (not really, he was very tidy) appears in the form of Hayden from Haywire Rotorsports. He has returned and has already been across the road measuring up the van for the parts I needed. Very pleased to give my phone calls the flick, he zips down the road to pick up the parts and within an hour I have two shiny new rotors and brake pads. Frank drives like a dream now.

Thanks to Hayden I was able to avoid a 2-day delay and money lost. He didn't have to help me out, he was well and truly closed for the day, but he went above and beyond and I couldn't be more grateful.






So yes. Sigh. A day of frustration and phone calls and unhelpful situations over. I missed out on a few things I wanted to do this afternoon but nothing major and hugely better than waiting and falling completely off the itinerary. Plus, you know, now I won't crash.

I know there are at least three people who are going to yell at me know for not saying anything earlier, so let me have it.

Rant over.




Te Puia Māori Village, Rotorua

 I write this entry from my place at Rotorua Holiday Thermal Camp and so can still smell the sulphur wafting on the wind. It really is such an interesting and unpleasant smell, but totally made up for by the great interlude of actual sightseeing I had in my otherwise crazy day.

The Māori Village, located at the base of the Te Puia mountain, is home to thermal hot springs, geysers, and mud pits. These thermal pools get up to 98º and the area was highly sought after not only for its resources but its a defensible position in times of war.

The Te Tohu and Pōhutu Geyers visible from quite a ways off.


Much like the Waitomo Glow Worm Caves, the guide was a young Māori man - though he says the porcelain mud from the mud pools has made his skin look more youthful than it actually is. He was very informative and funny and pointed out all the highlights and shared the way the geothermal landscape has played a role in Māori culture and history.






The steam and hot water just poured out of the rock formations at a steady stream the whole time I was there and it really was quite the sight to see.

From the geysers we went and saw the kiwi conservation area and did manage to see two kiwis out and about despite their being nocturnal. Pictures were prohibited, but I was pleased to see them and surprised as they were much bigger than I was imagining.

Te Puia is also home to the New Zealand Māori Arts and Crafts Institute. Part museum, part tertiary education, the Institute is comprised of the National Wood Carving School, National Stone and Bone Carving School, National Weaving School, and a Tā Moka (tattoo) studio - I didn't get to see this last one.

As intriguing as the geysers were, the arts and crafts really were my favourite part. I loved seeing how the traditional crafts and methods of production were being kept alive, and getting so see some of the work being done by up close was wonderful. I even saw two 2000-year-old trees that had fallen and were about to be carved into canoes. They were massive and mindbogglingly old.

Carving jade, or greenstone


Our guide demonstrating the harvesting and plying of cord from harakeke, or New Zealand flax



This was a day of highs and lows for sure and, despite the huge car rant (sorry), I really did love visiting Te Puia and met many kind people here in Rotorua. Back on the road tomorrow - got to put those fresh brakes to work!



NOTE: Thank you to those who have been leaving comments, but can you please include your name in the body of the comment. You're all coming up as 'Unknown' and it would be great to know who I'm talking to. Thanks!



We're ignoring the three hour gap where I forgot to record yesterday and am annoyed at myself.


Animal sightings
  • 2 Kiwi
  • The ubiquitous cows


Today's Playlist:

  • Stuff You Should Know: How Abandoned Cities Work
  • The Bechdel Cast: Little Women
  • Sawbones: John Kellogg’s Odd Prescription
  • Sawbones: Weight Loss
  • Stuff You Should Know: How Murphy’s Law Works


Daily stats:
Kilometres travelled: 98 (557 in total)
Times hit my head on the van: 1 (5 in total)
Number of strangers phones I had to borrow in order to sort out the van: 6
Times I apologised to the Roadside Assistance lady for taking my frustration out on her: 4
Biggest win: Hayden the mechanic
Biggest fail: Did I mention the lack of brakes?
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When you drive for multiple hours on your own you think of weird things and this title seemed funny to me at the time. It’s probably not.

Big day today and a great one! I snuck out of the campsite super early and stealthily (sort of) and went to two different locations over the course of the day.



Waitomo Glow Worm Caves, Waitomo

I’ll admit that I wasn’t particularly excited to go to the Glow Worm Caves. It just wasn’t on my list of must-sees, but everyone recommended it and it seemed quite popular so I included it on my way. 

Wow.

I absolutely loved it.



I was a little worried that I might feel a little claustrophobic in the caves - but after the first 10 metres or so the caves open up into massive caverns. The tour guide we had was quite a young man but he handled himself quite well and delivered his routine to great appreciation. The caves were just stunning, drippy stalactites coming down all around us.

When we got to the bottom-most point of the caves they pointed out the glowworms and, again, I wasn’t that fussed really - until I realised that I was just looking at their reflection on the water rather than the worms themselves. Such tiny, little pinpricks of light upon the roofs. It was incredible. And then when hit with the light you could see their webs (I know web isn’t the right word, but I can’t remember… it was like a dangling web though) coming down like strings of jewels and it was a totally different experience. I can understand how insects get trapped by them because they were right there in front of my face and I didn’t even realise.

At the conclusion of the tour, we boarded a boat (in the dark, mind you. I’m more than a little impressed with myself that I didn’t end up IN the river) and we travelled through the tunnel out. This was the most beautiful part of all. The glow worms filled the ceiling and down the walls all around us. It was a constellation of stars, like the clearest night sky you could ever hope to see. Everyone was completely awed. The tour guide navigated the tunnel and moved the boat about by pulling us along a series of suspended ropes over their head and I thought this very cool and I definitely wanted a turn.

Anyways. No pictures allowed in the caves but I encourage you to go google. I did get a few photos on the walk back to the top and it was such a contrast to the mostly pastoral surroundings I’d been seeing so far. Starting to see what people mean when they talk about New Zealand being all countries in one.








Hobbiton Movie Tour, Matamata
The Shire, Middle Earth

In contrast to the Glow Worm Caves, the Hobbiton tour was right on the top of my list (cross it off the nerd bucket list!).

What can I say about visiting The Shire? It was magical. Everything was so beautifully detailed and just so real. This was the part that impressed upon me the most: the care and devotion that was taken to making everything on the grounds as real as humanly (hobbitly?) real. Everything from the trees to the growing vegetables, even the smoke coming out a chimney top. Everything was real.

Our tour guide was so enthusiastic and funny - clearly, he loves his job. Lots of behind the scene facts and stories, which were great fun, and everything culminated in a stop at The Green Dragon where everyone was treated to an ale, cider, or ginger beer, all recipes that can only be had at The Green Dragon.

Anyways, I could rave on and on about it, but how about we look at some photos, hey? I won’t post them all (I had a little too much fun), but I’m sure to spam you all the same.




Katie and Amy - when we move to The Shire, this can be your Hobbit hole. 





Jess, I picked this one for you and Zac - there's festive decorations! 
The tour guide




Wendy, this is your home!

Bag End

Renae, I picked this one for you because it had sunflowers

Sam and Rosie's house 







For now, I’m camped down nice and cosy in the van. Last night I pulled the bed out to its full width (slightly wider than a single) but after the Circe de Soleil level of acrobatics required this morning to put everything back, I shall be sleeping on it in its couch setting tonight. I am a little worried I’ll roll off and fall between the seat and the bench. I may never get back up. So if you don’t hear from me tomorrow, that’s where I am.



Animal Sightings:

  • A whole mess of cows
  • Heaps of sheep
  • 2 (or maybe one fast-flying) falcon
  • Ducks!
  • More deer
  • Alpacas
  • Black swans
  • A bunny
  • 2 staffies just roaming about
  • Turkeys

Today's Playlist:

  • Mockingjay - Suzanne Collins
  • Sawbones: Mercury
  • Sawbones: Blood Letting
  • Sawbones: Plague Medicine
  • Welcome to Night Vale #160: The Weather
  • Stuff You Should Know: How Oil Shale Works
  • Sawbones: Opium
  • Sawbones: Hysteria
  • Stuff You Should Know: Death Proof Cars
  • Sawbones: Amputation Sawbones: Lobotomy

Daily stats:
Kilometres travelled: 330 (459 total)
Times I hit my head on the van: 3 (4 total)
Times I wished I lived in The Shire: ALL THE TIMES
Days biggest win: that I did actually need the stupid power cord again and so feel a lot better about shelling out all the money.
Days worst mistake: My slipshod approach to putting on sunscreen.
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"Where did you fly in from?"
"Sydney."
"Ah. Trying to escape the smoke."

This has been the refrain of the day, having received this response on three separate occasions. Now, I'm not saying they're wrong, but I'm getting ahead of myself. Let me dial back to where I left you.

The flight into Auckland was fairly uneventful and for a minute there I thought I was going to have the whole row to myself. Bliss.



Of course, that's just not the way the universe works and I was rewarded with a stressed-out mother with three children under 10. Bickering and vomit. That's what you get for being cocky! Plus, what you can't see in this photo is that I am the absolute last seat before the toilets, so much of the flight was spent with other people's butts in my face. So yes. Unturbulant but interesting.

I got into Auckland at midnight local time and hopped on the shuttle bus with a man wielding a ridiculously sized surfboard. It was quite the treat watching he and the bus driver trying to finagle it on board.

Nothing terribly exciting to report about the hotel.

This morning I was far too excited to get a move on so I was that annoying person waiting outside the van company before it was opened. An hour or so later (and the second smoke escaping comment of the day) everything was in order and I was taken out to meet my new travelling companion.



Just kidding!

Here's the fellow, let me introduce Frank. Wendy, Renae, and I have a long running understanding that any future camper van would be named Frank, so it's nice to finally meet him.





Frank isn't a big fellow, nor is he flashy, but he gets about well enough and that's all we're after.

Wanting to get all the errands out of the way nice and early, I went to the nearest Pack n' Save, which I had been informed was the cheapest place to stock up on some groceries. I'd compare it to an Aldi. I rather liked its bright demeanour.




My plan was to spend the afternoon at Shakespear Regional Park about an 90 or so minutes north so off I drove, very quickly remembering how much I enjoyed driving up so much higher. As I got closer I came across a Wendy's. Not an ice cream Wendy's, but the American food chain Wendy's. I have no shame in saying that I love a bit of pointless entertainment and have been loving the TryGuys series in which Keith eats everything on the menu, including one at Wendy's. So even though I have a no take out policy while away, I'm saying this doesn't count and you shouldn't judge for for breaking my rules on the second day.



I have no regret. It was the best chicken burger I've ever had and KFC needs to step it up.

I pulled over at Little Manly beach to eat my sneaky burger and have a little wander. I didn't stay too long because I knew I was further beach-bound, but it was pretty all the same.




From here it was only another ten minutes or so to the Whangaparaoa Peninsula and  Shakespear Regional Park. I visited the Open Sanctuary but didn't spot any kiwi out and about. The best part about the sanctuary was the view right at the top. Can you spot me in the photo?



See me? That's me in the air attached to that kite!

Who are we kidding, I was too busy trying to lure the sheep over to talk to me in their New Zealand accents.

Something I particularly appreciated about this spot was how much it recognised it's on beauty. I mean, it even framed itself.



I can appreciate that level of geographic arrogance.

Down the hill from this spot (in the opposite direction) was Orokomai Bay - one of the places I was most excited about visiting. Because in this bay you can collect your own cockles. I cannot for the life of me explain why I was so excited to do this, but when I read about it I was completely in.



There were a few people already at it when I arrived and they all looked fairly confident so in I waded. To very little avail. The guy to my left had already collected his whole allotment (50 cockles) and I couldn't find a one! What kind of hunter-gather am I if I can't even find a measly cockle? Staring down my enemies (the seagulls floating blithely by), I waded in further and continued my efforts.

Eventually (luckily, since this was my supper), I started getting the hang of it and, in a moment that filled me with pride and disproportionate self-worth, I even pulled out a handful in one go. It only happened the once, but I caught it on film so there's no denying my brilliance.




In preparation for this day, I had watched several videos on harvesting cockles (it looked way easier on Youtube) and then cooking them, so I headed to camp to feast on my bounty,

After letting them soak and filter and clean for an hour or two, and sparing a moment to admire them all over again -




- I steamed them and cookded them in a garlic butter sauce. And they were delicious.


Needless to say, I'm rather pleased with myself. Katie and Amy - I deserve more apocolypse-surviving-points please!


Animal Sightings:

  • Sheep (as above)
  • Cows
  • a single horse
  • cockles
  • the cutest and super tame ducks at the campsite, but Bec says I'm not allowed to talk about ducks
  • A HERD OF DEER. They were in a paddock and I didn't get a photo, but trust me, they were awesome.
  • 2 teeny crabs who accidently came back in my cockle bag.


 Daily Stats:

  • Kilometres traveled: 129
  • Times Sydney bushfires mentioned as a greeting: 3
  • Number of dead kiwis* seen on side of road making me sad: 5
  • Times I hit my head on the van: 1
  • Minutes of hot water alloted in shower: 5
  • Minutes of hot water received in shower: 0.5
  • Days biggest win: the cockles actually tasting good after all that effort
  • Days worst mistake: realising I needed a special power cord to use at the camp site and having to wind all the way back up the hill to go to Bunnings



*birds, not people
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